Blazer lovers! – Bernhard Roetzel

Nel 2018 abbiamo presentato la prima parte di un progetto chiamato Blazer today. In collaborazione con Vitale Barberis Canonico, abbiamo coinvolto 4 giovani sartorie italiane e chiesto loro di creare 4 blazer ispirandosi ad altrettanti modelli del passato. Dopo un lavoro di molti mesi abbiamo presentato le giacche in un evento nello showroom di VBC, in via Solferino a Milano.
Qui la galleria delle foto.

Nome, cognome, data di nascita, luogo di nascita
Bernhard Roetzel, 17.08.1966, Hannover.

Quanti blazer ha?
In the moment I own three blazers, two are bespoke, one was off-the-rack. I have owned and given away about half a dozen ready-to-wear blazers in the past 20 years.

A che età ha avuto il primo blazer?
I was 20 when I bought my first blazer in a second hand store in London. I believe it was from Austin Reed.

Il suo blazer preferito (materiale, sartoria, dettagli, origine…)?
My favourite blazer is double-breasted blazer made by Michael Possanner in Vienna from a midweight fabric from Hardy Minnis with Sterling silver buttons made in England for Ed. Meier München. It has four patch pockets including the ticket pocket and four buttons on the front an two at each sleeve.

Quale il tessuto ideale per un blazer (estate e inverno)?
The ideal fabric is some sort of twill weave. I like Hopsack blazers and I have owned from from Chester Barrie many years ago but I find hopsack a little too informal. I find twill weaves are suitable for a garment with a military background. My favourite fabric for a blazer is a heavy serge with is too warm most of the time.

Quali i bottoni più belli?
I like Sterling silver buttons best because gold or gilt buttons have become a cliché even though they are nice. In England it is considered to be bad taste to wear gold buttons unless you are entitled to wear some from a regiment or club.

Il contesto più giusto?
The blazer is similar to the tassel loafer which is not really a dress shoes and not a casual shoe either. The blazer is not as formal as the “abito scuro” but not as informal as “la giacca sportiva” tailored of tweed. I like to wear the blazer in the traditional English way for occasions that don’t require a suit but still something more chic than a tweedjacket. I think the blazer is perfect for an informal lunch, for visiting galleries or a museum or for watching races.

Qual è l’abbinamento migliore?
The perfect combination is a blazer made of heavy English serge and regimental buttons paired with beige cavalry twill trousers of equal weight, a cream poplin shirt, the tie of the Brigade of Guards and a pair of very old bespoke Capt toe Oxfords in very dark Burgundy calf.

Come lo ama indossare?
I have two favorite ways to wear my blazer.
1. With beige cavalrytwill trousers, brown suede shoes (Chukka boots, tasselloafers or Oxfords depending on the temperature), a shirt with a discrete check and a knitted tie in dark or funny colours. Stripes are the more classic choice but they can easily look like a caricature when worn with a blazer. I’d wear a brown triby with this combo and a covert coat with velvet collar.
2. With dark grey trousers, a white shirt, dark knitted ties and dark brown or black Oxfords for evening events. I’d wear a gabardine raglan raincoat with this combo and and mid grey or dark brown Trilby (depending on the colour of the shoes).

Il blazer più bello mai visto (chi lo indossava, dove, altri dettagli)?
I love the blazers worn by Prince Michael of Kent and his shirts and ties. 20 years ago I saw a blazer made by Meyer & Mortimer on a German aquaintance and I still have the impression that this was the perfect blazer.

Il suo blazer ideale?
I think that Chester Barrie used to make the perfect off-the-rack double-breasted blazers.

Come non deve essere un blazer?
Made of flannel or a high twist super lightweight worsted.

Come non va abbinato?
There was a fashion for black double breasted blazers with gold buttons in Germany which I found awful.

Il più grande errore che si commette col blazer?
To wear it with a striped tie of a famous regiment unless you have served there.

La prima cosa che le viene in mente alla parola blazer?
Plymouth gin.

Ha in programma un nuovo blazer?
Not in the moment. But my next blazer will be made of dark blue serge. I still regret that I never had a blazer made by Tobias Tailors of Savile Row when I still had my suits made there because they made the most beautiful blazers you can imagine.

NB le foto di questo articolo sono di Jan Hemmerich. Bernhard indossa un blazer del Maestro Michael Possanner in Vienna.